Bonded Leather Cleaning Risks | Technical Cleaning Series

Jeff Schwegmann

Bonded and Fused Leather

The Construction

This garment is constructed using leather or suede that has been "bonded" or "fused" to a fabric backing. This backing provides the stretch and flexibility required for modern fashion fits. The process involves applying adhesives to bond the hide to the fabric, which are then pressed to fuse them together. While this creates a unique look and feel, it presents significant challenges for professional cleaning.

The Risks of Dry Cleaning

Bonded materials are prone to separation (delamination) during the cleaning process. Most garments featuring this construction are made of lamb or sheepskin. While these hides are typically safe for leather dry cleaning—similar to how pure wool is processed—the cleaning solvents can dissolve the glues and adhesives holding the layers together.

If the adhesive fails, the material separates, creating "bubbles" or "dimples" on the surface of the leather. This distortion is highly visible when worn and, unfortunately, cannot be corrected by any method available once it occurs.

Our Preferred Method: Hand Cleaning

To mitigate these risks, we often opt to clean bonded items by hand. This is a specialized surface-cleaning method:

  • Exterior: We treat the leather or suede side for stains and condition the hide.
  • Interior: The lining is wiped down with a pH-neutral solution, followed by a light peroxide mist for disinfection.
  • Finishing: We apply refinishing pigments to leather or specialized oils to suede to restore the look.

While hand cleaning is the safest method, it is not a "deep clean" and may limit our ability to remove heavy or set-in stains.

The Wet Cleaning Alternative 

In some cases, we may use professional "leather wet cleaning." However, cleaning hides like sheep, lamb, goat, or deer in water carries its own risks. These materials can shrink or distort in ways that are often unpredictable.

  • Newer Items: Generally respond better to wet cleaning and can often be "blocked" (stretched) and pressed back into shape.
  • Older Items: Have a much higher risk of permanent shrinkage.
  • Protein Stains: Water-based methods are necessary for protein-based stains (such as perspiration or body oils), as standard leather dry cleaning solvents will not effectively remove them.

Service Recommendation 

If an item cannot be effectively hand-cleaned, we offer professional leather dry cleaning or wet cleaning as an alternative. Because of the inherent risks of material separation or shrinkage, these services require a completed Release of Liability form before we proceed. Our goal is always to prioritize the long-term wearability and safety of your garment.

Commonly Affected Garments & Trims

Synthetic leathers and vinyl are pervasive in modern fashion. It is vital to identify these materials during the intake process, as they are often found in:

  • Outerwear: "Vegan" leather moto jackets, trench coats, and quilted puffer jackets.
  • Varsity & School Jackets: Often featuring vinyl sleeves attached to a wool body (a high-risk combination for dry cleaning).
  • Sportswear: Performance leggings, "liquid" look tops, and athletic windbreakers with heat-sealed vinyl accents.

Trousers & Skirts: Slim-fit "stretch" faux leather pants which are under constant tension, accelerating delamination.

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